The third and final stop on my short Riesling tour was the Pfalz (known as Palatinate in English), Germany’s biggest and in my opinion one of its most exciting wine regions.
The Pfalz is located in the southwest corner of the country, roughly about 100km south of Frankfurt, along the Haardt Mountains, which are the continuation of the Vosges on the French side of the border.
Just like Alsace, it’s one of the sunniest and driest parts of the country, and traditionally has focused mostly in white grapes – primarily Riesling – though there’s been a trend towards red grape plantings in the last few years, including Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Dornfelder and even Cabernet Sauvignon.
My trip started along the Deutsche Weinstrasse (German Wine Route) – an 85 km route that crosses the most important towns and vineyards in the area. My base was the quaint town of Deidesheim, home of three famous producers: von Buhl, Bassermann-Jordan and Burklin-Wolf.
VON BUHL
Founded in 1849, Reichsrat von Buhl is known for some of the noblest Rieslings from the best vineyards of Mittelhaardt. The winery focuses on terroir-driven wines from the best soils of Deidesheim and Forst. Von Buhl is certified organic, and is an active ambassador of natural and sustainable viticulture, and has been part of the VDP association since 2013. During my visit I was greeted by Alex in their small, family-friendly tasting room in the center of town.
Recommended wines:
- 2012 Forster Pechstein GG Riesling: Sourced from fruit grown in the heat-retaining basalt soils of the Pechstein vineyard. Dry, intensely mineral with a great balance of acidity and white peach flavors. Incredibly complex with a very long, steely finish.
- 2016 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten (VDP Erste Lage): Paradiesgarten (“the garden of paradise”) is one of the great vineyards surrounding the village of Deidesheim. The soils are sandstone with sandy loam which brings a graceful, silky texture. Mouthwatering, crunchy white peach fruit and ripe apple freshness. Great purity and finesse.
- 2015 Forster Freundstuck GG Riesling: Perfumed fragrance of mandarin and orange, creamy with a little wood spice from 2-year aging in 100% stuck (1200-liter oak casks)
BURKLIN-WOLF
Biodynamic-purist Dr. Burklin-Wolf dates back to 1597 and is one of the largest and most important estates in Germany, overseeing 85 hectares of top-rated vineyard sites in the unique landscape of the Mittelhaardt.
The estate has always been considered a pioneer and trailblazer for change in German viticulture and since 1994 focuses exclusively in dry Rieslings. Here I met up with Annette Siegrist, the winery’s Export Director.
Recommended wines:
- 2016 Wachenheimer Goldbächel Riesling (VDP Erste Lage): Candle wax and blossomy perfume on the nose. The palate is crisp and tart, with a touch green melon and lime flavors and a distinctly honeyed richness. Aged 1 year in lees in 100% old casks. 12.5% alcohol. As other Rieslings from Wachenheim, it delivers finely poised sweetness and purity of flavor.
- 2016 Ruppertsberger Gaisböhl Riesling (Grand Cru): Sourced from a monopole vineyard, this is a great example of the aromatic depth of a great dry German Riesling. The nose shows very distinctive earthy/mineral flavors along with highly elegant stone fruit aromas. Full-bodied, dense and mineral on the palate, this is an intense, elegant and very well-balanced Riesling, with great complexity.
BASSERMAN-JORDAN
The history of the Bassermann-Jordan winery is one that is intertwined with the history of winemaking in Pfalz. Along with other passionate producers in the region, each generation of the Jordan family established and greatly influenced quality-based viticulture in Germany over the past 300 years.
In 1718, Pierre Jordan purchased the family’s first vineyards in Pfalz, while Johann-Peter Jordan built the winery in Deidesheim sixty-five years later. Bassermann-Jordan is one of the founding members of the VDP, Germany’s top organization to ensure quality wine.
Its property holdings include some of the most notable sites in Forst, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg and one third are top-rated Grand Cru vineyards such as Hohenmorgen, Pechstein, and Jesuitengarten. The vineyards are organically farmed without the use of chemical pesticides and fermented with natural yeast. Most wines are aged in traditional wooden casks.
Recommended wines:
- 2016 Jesuitengarten Riesling Grosses Gewachs: The Jesuitengarten vineyard originally belonged to the Jesuit monks in this region and has been owned by the Jordan family since 1793. Rich and full-bodies with flavors of yellow peach, pear, and wet stone. On the palate the wine is structured with balanced acidity, lively minerality, and a long, luscious finish.
- 2017 Forster Ungeheuer Ziegler (VDP Erste Lage): Very mineral driven with massive acidity. The nose offers up classic citrus zest and wet stone. It’s a bit young and nervy and will definitely be delicious in 2-3 years.
The Pfalz is an amazing place for dry Rieslings as they combine a unique quality of honeyed richness and body, balanced with very high acidity. I was impressed at the number of producers making exciting, delicious wines in this corner of Germany.
Vino Interiano 